I feel that I can write about aging. I mean, my nephew just turned sixteen, so I feel pretty darn aged. But (ah-ha!, the “but”) in this particular case, I’m talking about aging cocktails. As you might expect, this blog being at least nominally about cocktails and not about me musing on my ever-increasing years. Some Seattle bars (such as Liberty, whose swell owner Andrew is pictured to the left), like bars in other cocktail hot-towns, have in the last year or so gotten into this idea of aging cocktails, usually in oak (but sometimes not), to see what it does to the cocktail’s taste. Which leads, often, to tasty things for us cocktail lovers. All of which led to me writing a fairly short, but incredibly awesome (I say, humbly) article on aged cocktails here in the Emerald City for the sweet Seattle Magazine. You, if you’re interested in Seattle bars, cocktails, aging cocktails, booze, bars, or me talking about my grandfather, should go and read it now.
As I mentioned once in a Cocktail Talk post over two years ago (amazing that I’ve been writing this blog for so long, now that I mention it), I’m not a huge Perry Mason book fan, meaning those (and there were tons) written by Erle Stanley Gardner. I am a gigantic Perry Mason television show fan, however. Which points I suppose to how wacky I am, or some such. But the books just seem a tad too smart about themselves, while the show seems just the right pitch of genius and atmosphere. However, I do still pick up the occasional Perry Mason book, mostly because many of the original pocket book covers are joys to behold. Take the one pictured here–lovely lady, in negligee, with smoking pistol, on a boat. Gawd, that’s wonderful. And this book I liked more than others, too, as it seemed a little less in hand at times to me, and had the full contingent of Perry Mason favorites: dashing detective Paul Drake, saucy and swell secretary Della Street, and cuddly losers (at least when facing Perry) Lieutenant Tragg and DA Hamilton Burger. And, the following little gem of an exchange:
Drake said, “Here’s a car with three of my operatives now. What do we do first?”
“Put them out the way I said, so they can watch the apartment, the garage, and the windows.”
“Okay, then what?”
“Then,” Della Street interposed with firm determination,“we get a cup of hot coffee and it there’s any brandy in the car, we spike it with brandy. My chattering teeth are chipping off.”
“That,” Mason agreed, “is an idea.”
In an earlier Cocktail Talk post, I had a quote from Qiu Xiaolong’s book Death of a Red Heroine (which I highly recommended then and still do now), and talked a bit about the author and his main character in the series, Shanghai poet and Chief Inspector Chen (though Chen’s second-in-command Detective Yu gets a lot of deserved face time on the page, too, with chapters often switching off with the two as alternating protagonists). So, for more background, go read that post. Cause here I just want to get straight into this quote, which is from a book in the series called A Case of Two Cities, which takes place not only in late 20th century Shanghai but also Los Angeles and St. Louis. This quote is actually Chen remembering “a short poem by Wang Han, an eighth-century Tang dynasty poet,” and would have made a dandy addition to In Their Cups: An Anthology of Poems About Drinking Places, Drinkers, and Drinks had I known of it.
Oh the mellow wine shimmering
in the luminous stone cup!
I am going to drink
on the horse
when the army Pipa starts
urging me to charge out.
Oh, do not laugh
if I fall dead
drink in the battlefield.
How many soldiers
have really come back home
since time immemorial?
So, there’s been a bit of a paucity of posts around the ol’ Spiked Punch saloon recently, because I’ve been holding off (and if anybody cracks wise about how I don’t post a whole lot anyway they get cracked) so that the finishing touches could be touched up on my brand spanking new website. Check it out y’all–isn’t it amazing? I think (modestly) it’s the best site on the whole web (outside of Neilalien, who is somewhat dormant and who has Dr. Strange on his side). And I had little or nothing to do with it. The heavy brain and imagining and pretty-ing and polishing and everything was concocted, unrolled, shaken, stirred, and poured by the Wandering Works Design Co, which by day equals the dashing Sam Schick and the elusively debonair Eli Van Zoeren. These guys are the tops, the Champagne of web site designers and makers and if you want to have a website that’s almost as good as this (which is 99% better than anything else) I suggest you contact Sam immediately. Well, first, spend some time browsing around, watching the cocktail videos, rounding out your book collection, all that. And hey, come back often, ya’hear?
PS: Huge, immeasurable, thanks to Leslie Pierson of the almighty Schtickers for all her free and wonderful help on the website in the past. She rules.
In the second smashing episode of the new season of the Cocktail to Cocktail Hour (hey, didja somehow miss the first episode with poet Ed Skoog and the Ellipse cocktail? They watch it now) I my-own-self take the stage in the Cocktail to Cocktail studios to make a brandy-Benedictine-Cointreau-lemon drink called They Shall Inherit the Earth. It was originally created by Morley Callaghan, a Canadian writer from years past. Oh, and there’s singing. And more singing by some shady folks who stopped in the studio. Curious? Watch it for gosh sakes.
Here’s what I promise to you, friends, neighbors, fellow Defenders (of all things cocktail-icious, if not the world), and those people that came to this site by accident when they were looking for A.J. Foyt’s homepage. I promise that before the year is through, the second episode of the new season of the Cocktail to Cocktail Hour (the best little cocktail video show in all the land) will be posted right here on Spiked Punch. I also promise that the below Champagne Punch recipe, handed down from generation to generation (and printed in Good Spirits, among other spots), will charm anyone you’re having over for Christmas or any other winter holiday of your choice. Since I can’t be there, dagnabbit, serve this punch and know that through the miracle magic of the holidays I’ll be toasting with you wherever I am, no matter the miles between us. And finally, let me promise one more thing: to wish you a happy holiday season. And now I’ve done it.
Champagne Punch
Serves 10
Ice (in block form if possible; if not, large chunks)
6 ounces freshly squeezed orange juice
4 ounces simple syrup
2 ounces freshly squeezed lime juice
2 ounces freshly squeezed lemon juice
6 ounces white rum
6 ounces dark rum
Once 750-milliliter bottle chilled Champagne
Orange, lime, and lemon slices, for garnish
1. Add the ice to a large punch bowl. If using chunks (as opposed to a large block of ice), fill the bowl just under halfway.
2. Add the orange juice, simple syrup, lime juice, and lemon juice. With a large spoon or ladle, stir 10 times.
3. Add the white and dark rums. Stir 10 more times.
4. Add Champagne, but not too quickly. Enjoy the moment. Add a goodly amount of orange, lime, and lemon slices. Stir, but only once.
5. Ladle into punch glasses or festive goblets. Try to ensure that every guest gets a slice of fruit and a smile.
I know, I know, I’m a little late to the party (which doesn’t happen as often as you might think, unless I’m going to like 5 parties in one night). In this case, I’m specifically referring to the Bitters party. If you don’t know about the Bitters party, then I’m glad to be the one to invite you. In this case, I’m not speaking of bitters in the larger sense, but Bitters in the sense of Brad Thomas Parsons’ wonderful book of the same name, a book which will (if you get on it and get to ordering) make your holiday season the jolliest, not to mention making every shin-dig you throw in 2012 tastier. To roll out the full title, Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All, with Cocktails, Recipes, and Formulas is packed with (you might expect this) recipes for bitters, recipes for cocktails with bitters, and recipes for culinary delights with bitters. But it also is bubbling with (and this you might not expect, cause few books deliver on it) histories, stories, and most of all darn fine writing of all of the above. See, Mr. Parsons isn’t just a recipe developer, or a cocktail cultivator, or a historical researcher of food trends and triumphs throughout the years. Though he is all of those things, he’s also a darn fine storyteller and yarn-spinner, and it’s the stories and his always charming writing that makes the book such a fine read and such a boon bar companion (much like the man himself). But heck, I’m gushing like a teenager. Here’s my final word–don’t take my word for the brilliance of Bitters. Go on and get yourself a copy. Because you certainly don’t want a mundane holiday season, or a boring 2012. And Bitters will make both better.
Here’s something that’ll add a little kick to your holiday season–Seattle has another local spirit now available for public consumption. After the various distillery articles, it’s probably not surprising that there are more new spirits, but what’s surprising is that this one probably isn’t going to ring any bells (or not many). It’s a shōchū, a Japanese-origin spirit, one that often goes through a single distilling, usually made from barley (though other options abound), and usually with a lesser alcohol content as well as with less calories than say, vodka and various health benefits (or so the legends go). There are some other rules and such, but I’m starting to digress too far afield. The main point is that the Sodo Spirits distillery here in Seattle (lucky us) is making and marketing a shōchū called EvenStar.
If you’ve never had shōchū, or shochu, then you aren’t alone. I hadn’t tried it but once, until recently experimenting with the EvenStar. It was light on its feet as you might expect, with a hint of rosemary and grain and a tiny herbal undertone. The suggested drinking modes cover the gamut from neat, warm (like some sake is consumed), over ice, and mixed in cocktails. The friendly folks at the Sodo Spirits have some cocktail suggestions on their site and some that come along with the EvenStar (by the way, they were nice enough to send me a bottle) but many of the drinks were using it alongside other base spirits, and to me it seemed to have enough taste to stand as a base spirit, if that makes sense. So, I did what comes naturally to any cocktail-loving cocktail lover; I started experimenting on my own.
I thought that the EvenStar’s hints of herbalness and rosemary might match up with other herb-ish mixtures, and I was right–it matched up well with French liqueur Chartreuse, especially the green version, as well as with the earth mother of bitters, Peychaud’s. After I had those two other ingredients, I just needed to balance everything out a bit, the low and the high, the herbal and the sweet, the gossip and the facts, and a little fresh orange juice did the trick right. The end result is a cocktail worthy of Venus, the goddess of love and beauty, as it’s light, won’t weigh you down, and has a lovely glow. I suggest trotting down to your local liquor store (if in the Seattle area) and picking up some EvenStar and taking Venus out for a spin this winter. Or, try it in other mixes and let me know what you come up with, because I’m always open to other ideas. And if you don’t live here (well, first–why not?), then come for a visit, because our local distillers are making Seattle an even finer place to reside within.
The Venus in Voiron Cocktail
Ice cubes
2 ounces EvenStar shochu
3/4 ounce green Chartreuse
1/4 ounce freshly squeezed orange juice
Dash Peychaud’s bitters
1. Fill a cocktail shaker halfway full with ice cubes. Add the shochu, Chartreuse, orange juice, and bitters.
2. Strain the mix through a fine strainer into a cocktail glass. Drink looking east, and then drink looking west.